Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Stolpersteine Walking Tour

I had a great opportunity to chaperone a walking field trip of Wiesbaden with Cora and the 8th graders here.  It was specifically focused on Jewish history and the Stolpersteine, or stumbling stones, around the city.  I've mentioned the stumbling stones before on here, but I learned a few things, and I will talk more about those later. 

Our first stop was Gedenkort Schlachthoframpe.

The last large deportation of Jews from Weisbaden (370 people) was September 1, 1942, from this location behind the Train Station. 

Instead of going to the actual train station, they went to the schlachthof, which is a slaughterhouse for animals, often located next to train stations.  Then they were crammed into cattle cars, and sent to the extermination camps.  At the memorial here, chestnut trees line the way to a mural, painted by graffiti spray-paint artist Yorkar7, depicting a photo-realistic look at the arrival and registration of deportees.

The trees are in sandstone holders inscribed with words from letters of the deportees.

Okay, I have to sidetrack for a second here.  This is the slaughterhouse.

As you can see, it is completely covered with graffiti.  But come to find out, this area of the city is a designated and legal place for graffiti.  You have to register, sometimes with a workshop, and you have to follow certain rules (like nothing racist, sexist, violent, etc, respect other artists/images, and things like that).  Anyway, I was blown away by some of the art there. It is really cool to see.







Okay, now back to the field trip.  Our next stop was the Memorial to the Sinti and Roma, which are gypsy groups.  Obviously, the Jewish people were not the only victims of the Nazis, and this memorial shows a group of men, women, and children being crushed under a heavy load.

Next was the Aktives Museum, which currently has a small display of anti-Semitic propaganda - stamps, matchbooks, leaflets, etc., all telling about how the greatest evil is the Jews, and it's there fault for the war, blah, blah, blah.  Also advertisements for Jewish-free hotels and the like.  Sad stuff.  (by the way, the Aktives Museum is also involved with the stumbling stones here in Wiesbaden, which I'll talk about later)



We also stopped at the sight of the former synagogue, which was burned to the ground in 1938. 
 
It was one of the most beautiful buildings in Wiesbaden, and it's a shame it's not still there. 

In its place is this memorial wall, which has the names of 1,507 Wiesbaden victims.

Inside the Rathaus (town hall), there is a small memorial room of Jewish life.  They have a really cool video that shows a virtual reconstruction of the old synagogue.  This display (below) has a mirror opposite it, and you have to look in the mirror to read what it says. 

Part of it says (rough translation), "As a Jew, they were step-by-step gradually forced out of society.  Their shops were boycotted, they were persecuted, dispossessed, and later forced to emigrate.  Their synagogues were burned, and businesses were looted and destroyed.  Those who couldn't emigrate tried to flee to save their lives.  Many did not succeed.  Parents tried desperately to save their children by sending them abroad.  Soon, those who could not save themselves had to wear the yellow star, were deported to concentration camps, forced into slave labor, tortured and murdered...and then...they were gone.

The whole time we were walking around the Wiesbaden, we were also on the lookout for the stumbling stones, and took pictures of the ones we found. 

Previously, I was under the impression that this project was started by the government, but it wasn't - the stumbling stones are a project of the artist Gunter Demnig from Cologne, to commemorate the victims of the Nazi-regime.  Demnig's motto is,

"A human being is only forgotten when his name is forgotten."

The brass-plated paving stones are put into the public sidewalk in front of the house where the person had last freely chosen residence.  The inscription says, "Here lived...", followed by the dates of birth, deportation, and death. In this way, Demnig brings the victims of the Nazi terror back into the neighborhoods where they were taken from. 



Everyone passing by who wants to read the inscription, by lowering his head, makes a little bow to the victim.  I love that!

This European art project is now the biggest non-central memorial worldwide.  At present, nearly 35,000 stumbling stones lie in over 600 locations in Europe (Germany, Austria, France, Poland, etc.)  Below is a video about this project.  The video is a little old, but it tells about their website and what they do.

I don't know how it is in other cities, but here in Wiesbaden, in 2004, the local city parliament decided to support the project, and helps place the stones (obviously the artist Demnig cannot place ALL the stones himself).  And a local museum, the Aktives Museum Spiegelgasse for German-Jewish history, is responsible for the research of each family and individual, and the organizational aspects of placing the stones. There are currently 509 stones in Wiesbaden.  Individuals and groups sponsor each stone, which costs 120 Euro.  In 2014 five stumbling stones were laid in memory of the Weiser family.  The Wiesbaden Middle School JLS (Junior Leadership Seminar) purchased one stone in memory of Adolf Wieser, the teenaged son of Hermann and Ester.
Overall, this was a wonderful fieldtrip.  It took a LOT of parent volunteers to help make this happen (for security reasons we had to stay in small groups and spread out).  Everyone learned a lot, and we were all touched by the stories of the Jewish people who made Wiesbaden their home.

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Heidelberg

Over Memorial Day weekend, Joe and I wanted to go explore Heidelberg.  Our kids did not want to go walk around another boring town, looking at churches and castle ruins.  What?!  Whatever, we went with out them.  Who needs dumb kids anyway?  JUST KIDDING!

We did, however, enjoy our day sans kids.  Heidelberg is another really beautiful German city.  There used to be a military base there not that long ago.  Some of the people in our ward were at that base until it closed, and then moved here.  We thought we would have really liked living there ourselves.  Heidelberg is a popular tourist spot, so there were a LOT of tourists there.  We heard several different languages, and Joe found some people speaking Arabic to practice with, and then some Spanish speaking people - he always finds people to practice with ;)

We went straight to Heidelberg Castle first.  It's part-way up the mountain from the town, so there are some great views from there of the town and the Neckar River.  We tried hiking up first, but kept hitting dead ends.  Then we stumbled into the tram, and took that up instead.


 The castle, built from a former fortress in the 16th and 17th century, is mostly in ruins.  It used to have big beautiful gardens surrounding it (now just big grassy areas).  Both the castle and gardens were mostly destroyed in the Thirty Years Wars, and only somewhat restored.





 Mark Twain wrote about Heidelberg castle, specifically the split turret (pictures below) in A Tramp Abroad - "A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it....One of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and Nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. The standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace....Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes – improved it."



 There are a couple of interesting things inside the castle.  First is an apothecary museum.  It was pretty interesting, but we couldn't take pictures, and there were no free samples ;)

Second is the Heidelberg Tun, the world's largest wine barrel.  It was built in 1751 to hold all the wine that was paid as taxes from the local wine growers.  It is about 23 feet high, 28 feet wide, and holds over 58,000 gallons of wine. It was really hard to get a picture of this thing.

 After the castle we went down to walk around the town.  There was the university library.

The Kornmarkt, with the Grain Market Madonna fountain in the middle, town hall to the side (right)...

...and a nice view of the castle above.
 The Church of the Holy Spirit in the Marktplatz.
 This church was started in 1398, but it took about 50 years to build.

 The tomb of Prince-Elector Rupert III (the founder of the church) and his wife (?) are inside.
 From the Marktplatz we went to the Old Stone Bridge (1788).  Below is the Medieval Bridge Gate.
 The Neckar River
 Beautiful view of the Old Stone Bridge, with Heidelberg Castle in the background.
We think the poor kids missed out on a fun day.  We showed them the pictures, but I don't think they regretted anything.  Kids.